D90 Redscale Revisited

Encouraged by the results with the X10, I set out to attempt the same Redscale effect with the D90. And while it’s entirely possible to achieve a similar effect with a 10,000K white balance on the D90, the results are not nearly as pleasing.

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RAW Processing: X10 vs. D90

The degree to which you can process a Raw image on the X10 is quite extensive compared with the D90.

As a rule, I process images in the Lightroom, so I don’t have a pressing need for this function. As a result, I haven’t really explored this on the D90. But, as I put the X10 through its paces, I’ve come across its rather extensive list of processing options, which is basically everything. And this has encouraged me to revisit this function on the D90.

I’m pleased to say that there are some options, but they’re very basic. The ability to change white balance and exposure are important, resolution and compression less so. And once you generate a JPEG image, you can’t process it any further.

It’s all good though. The D90 is reserved for very serious work, so this kind of processing will always be done in the Lightroom. But, it does make the X10 a Camera Raw champion.

Redscale in the City

Well, the X10 looked like it had redscale potential in my initial tests. Then I brought it into the City. At night. In Times Square. Wow.

That the X10 was able to capture some remnants of color in its fiery orange images was a pleasant surprise. it's one of the things that make film redscale photography compelling. But I had no idea this would happen...

As it is, the Fujifilm X10 responds differently than you’d think to various colors and light sources, most notably deep, saturated blues and cyans. It’s a striking contrast to the yellows and oranges in the rest of the image.

Reds often turn magenta, adding yet another dynamic. But the results vary widely from scene to scene, making for some enjoyable shooting:

Vello and the X10

The Vello 52mm snap-on petal lens hood is an excellent alternative that works perfectly on the Fujifilm X10.

Attached to the the Fujifilm LH-X10 filter adapter/lens hood (or other third-party filter/hood adapters), it can also be reverse-mounted without interfering with the body, making for a convenient and effective solution. Even at the widest setting, there’s no vignetting.

You can even use it with the Marumi 40mm UV filter installed, with minimal vignetting (just a slight dark spot in the lower left corner at 28mm, which is completely gone at 35mm; your results may vary). and of course it snaps right onto any 52mm filter installed on the adapter.

Redscaling the X10

White balance works a little differently on the Fujifilm X10 than it does on the D90. Once you set it, you can push it further with the WB Shift.

If you set the D90 to 10,000K then start playing around with the WB Trim, it can drop down below 10,000K. On the X10, any adjustment you make seems to be in addition to the overall setting, which makes for some interesting possibilities. Like Redscaling simulation.

Set the Kelvin WB to 10,000K, then set the WB shift to +9 (red) and -9 (yellow). (the WB is still indicated as 10,000K) then, set the film simulation to Velvia, and bring the color saturation all the way up. You can also play around with sharpness and contrast.

In-Camera Redscale Effect with the Fujifilm X10

The results are some interesting redscale simulations, better than I can get with the D90 using an orange filter. Unlike using a filter alone, more color separation information is captured, making for a more faithful redscale effect. you get nice greens, and the reds pop from the oranges. The highlights turn to a bright greenish yellow just as with film.

The really cool thing is you can set this all up in one of the two custom presets, so you can switch over anytime. Minor post-processing gets you very close to the effect you get with film.

Just another cool thing about the X10.

Life with the Fujifilm X10

The more I use this camera, the more I learn about the amazing things it can do. None the least of which is fooling passers by into thinking it’s a Leica.

For a while, I thought bracketing may not be part of its feature set. But I found it, hidden in plain sight, under the drive button where it logically belongs. With this button, the top selection on the multi-selector/sub-command dial, you can choose from single or multiple frames (with frame rate selection), best shot selector, or AE, ISO, film simulation and dynamic range bracketing. Wow!

Each mode has its own settings. So if you want to shoot Aperture Priority at low ISO, and Shutter Priority at high ISO, and Program Mode with auto white balance, you can set them each up that way.

Then there’s the C1 and C2 custom user settings. Say that you want to set one up for infrared with a custom white balance. You can do that. Or the other one with a custom white balance for redscale. You can do that too, because each custom white balance you set up can be saved under a different mode, includind C1 and C2. And they’re right there on the mode dial, no menus to dig through.

They’re best used to choose from amongst the extensive RAW processing options. That’s right, I can use the camera itself to process its own RAW files adjusting their exposure, white balance, WB trim, film simulation, dynamic range, color saturation, hue, highlight contrast, shadow contrast, sharpening and noise reduction. It gives new meaning to shooting RAW, especially with the “RAW on Demand” button, which is sheer genius. Wish my Nikon D90 had that.

This camera has so much to offer, and it’s truly a pleasure to use. Even the leather case is easy to live with.

Review: Marumi 40mm MC-UV Filter

Well it took some doing, but I finally received this from 2filter.com. If you own the Fujifilm X10, this is an important filter to consider.

After reading some posts about the Fujifilm X10 filter issue, I learned the following:

• According to Fujifilm, the “official” filter size of the Fujifilm X10 is 39.5mm.
• 40.5mm, popularized by the Nikon 1 and others, will not fit.
• Some 40mm filters will fit, even if only for a quarter turn or so.
• Marumi filters are one of the 40mm filters that works quite well.

And so, armed with this knowledge, I set out to order an import Marumi 40mm filter from FiltersNow, the supplier mentioned in the thread. Apparently, Marumi had to start another manufacturing run due to its popularity in Japan. So, about two months after I first learned of its existence, I now have it in hand

The filter fits perfectly, although it seems a little on the loose side, which is not a bad thing. It screws on all the way with no binding whatsoever, which seems strange given that it’s supposedly 0.5mm larger that the X10’s threads. The other burning questions are:

• Will the Fujifilm push-on lens cap fit over the Marumi Filter?
• Will the Fujifilm LH-X10 lens hood fit onto the Marumi 40mm filter?
• Will the Marumi 40mm filter accept a lens cap?
• Does the Marumi 40mm filter effectively block UV?

The answers to these question are yes, yes, yes and…maybe. It failed the blacklight test, as do many UV filters these days. Without test equipment I can’t say just how much UV it does suppress, only that it’s definitely not as effective as the classic single-coated Hoya UV(0) in the bandwidth that causes white paper to fluoresce. This is not really a concern, as I’m really only using it for protection. If I need real UV protection, I can always use the 52mm Hoya Pro1 D UV(0) with the LH-X10.

As far as the lens cap goes, the Fujifilm fits on due to its extra depth, but is not nearly as secure. I probably wouldn’t use it in the field. However a standard 39mm center-pinch lens cap should work fine if you can’t find a 40mm one. The 39mm cap from my Voigtländer Ultron 40mm f/2.0 fits fine and looks great, but the Fujifilm leather case doesn’t close completely with it on. A better choice would be a Leica 39mm lens cap, as it’s slightly thinner. They’re both about the same price, although the Leica is available on eBay for about $9.95. However, I believe this is a reproduction. The real question is, do you even need a lens cap with the leather case? The filter essentially behaves like a transparent lens cap you never have to remove, so I’d skip the cap entirely when using the X10 with the leather case.

The Fujifilm LH-X10 hood fits on the Marumi filter, but it’s a little tight. It starts to bind after about a half-turn, but once you get past that it screws on all the way. It’d recommend a drop of silicone, and keep a rubber jar lid remover at the ready. Tolerances being what they are, your experience might be different. With the added extension of the filter, the LH-X10 hood does not cause vignetting.

Otherwise, the filter is well made, with clean tampo printing. The multi-coating is of the blue-green variety, similar to the Hoya Pro1 Digital’s. The glass is secured with a split ring, just like like the Hoyas, so it has a relatively slim profile. Definitely worth twenty-six dollars and change.

Given the ineffectiveness of UV suppression I’m a little wary, but would otherwise consider Marumi filters for future purchases.

My experience with FiltersNow (2filter.com) was favorable. They seemed to have some difficulty at first getting product from Marumi, but after my second call they explained their dilemma, and called me back to officially take my order once the item was in stock. It was shipped in a reasonable amount of time, but not with the blinding speed of some web fulfillment.

Unfortunately, their website is one of the worst I’ve ever seen, and I can’t make heads nor tails of the information they provide. Online ordering is therefore very impractical, and not worth the small savings over B&H. It’s actually easier to call them at (800) 882-2832 to place an order. They don’t even have an eMail address.

First Impressions: Fujifilm X10

The Fujifilm X10; The Digital Rangefinder has Arrived.

The packaging was not exactly the velour-lined variety you’d find in a Leica, but it was still definitely upscale (and environmentally friendly) nonetheless. The camera comes in a bag with a foil factory seal that cannot be removed and replaced without visible evidence.
This is a real camera; solid, metal; very little plastic is used. No detail has been overlooked to bring the rangefinder experience to a compact digital camera. Even Leica’s recent trend to omit their logo from the front of the camera for a clean appearance has been followed.

The first step with any camera, before you even power it on, is to install the neck strap. Fiddling with a new camera and dropping it on the floor is not a path to happiness. The X10 is a “real” camera in the sense that it has traditional lugs for the strap, just like you’d find on all classic cameras, and current “pro” models. I’ve always had a little trepidation about installing the split rings on these lugs, but Fujifilm has provided a small plastic tool to facilitate this operation without scratching either the lugs or the camera. Once the triangular-shaped split ring is on the lug, it’s a simple matter to insert a business card or similar thickness material between the ring and the lug as you rotate it around and into final position. The leather-like protector and strap go on easily from this point.

The size and weight of this camera are simply perfect, it being a tad smaller that an average rangefinder, which is a desirable thing. The viewfinder is left of center, making right-eye viewing, possible, which keeps your nose off the LCDand allows you to perform traditional both-eyes-open rangefinder composition. And its huge; about the same size as the Nikon D90, which is considerably larger than the Nikon D3100 DSLR.

At my first opportunity I pitted it against the Nikon D90 under the worst conditions; ISO 3200, f/2.8, 28mm. ISO 3200 is my benchmark for low-light performance. Anything beyond that I don’t expect much, even from cameras that are rated to ISO 25,600. I hope if I ever get my hands on a D800, I’m proven wrong. I had to stop down on the X10, because it’s one stop faster than the AF NIKKOR 20mm f/2.8D lens I’m using to test the Nikon (so technically I would have had to use only ISO 1600 anyway) and on the Nikon, I had to shoot at 30mm, the full-frame equivalent of the lens used.

Yes, the Nikon won. But, that win was very subjective. First, I had to focus manually, because the D90’s autofocus was inconsistent. The X10 nailed it first time. Second, the Nikon had so much contrast, that shadow detail was obscured in comparison with the Fujfilm. On the other hand, the X10 seemed a little flat. As far as sharpness, it’s kind of a draw; some areas of the X10 were sharper than the D90, and vice versa. The noise “grain” was very similar, although the X10’s was mottled; the D90’s was much cleaner.

But all in all the differences were not that great considering the size difference in the sensors:

Nikon D90

Fujifilm X10

But then I decided to compare it with the Nikon D5100. Any reservations I had about this camera, that it might be redundant with the P5100 in terms of sensor size and image quality, were immediately dispelled. This camera is so superior to the D5100 at high ISO that the differences in sensor size will leave you wondering, How’d they do that?

Nikon P5100

There’s far less noise and better color saturation at ISO 3200 on the X10 that there is on the P5100 at only ISO 1600. The difference is like night and day. The X10 has far more in common with the D90 than it does with the P5100 at high ISO.

At ISO 200 however, the differences become less. The P5100 holds its own, in many instances producing images that are just as sharp, or slight sharper. But, the caveat to that is that Nikon’s noise reduction renders images that have a somewhat pointillist, painterly quality, while the Fuji’s look much more natural and D90-like. Fuji’s images respond quite well to sharpening; Nikon’s do not.

Dedicated controls and a vast feature set put this camera in a whole new class.

The X10 makes a bold departure from other cameras in its class by offering a mechanical zoom lens (vs. a motorized one) and an actual slip-on lens cap, as opposed to an integral shutter. The feature set is enormous. Everything I’ve been missing in my venerable Nikon P5100 is here, and more. Camera Raw, which can also be used on-demand with a dedicated button. Manual focus. White balance trim with Kelvin mode. Diopter viewfinder adjustment. Image preview. Lightning-fast response time. Low-light performance. The list goes on. Overall, it has much more in common with the D90 than it does with the P5100, and has officially displaced that camera as my backup. I will now officially dub my P5100 my “Digital Holga”. It still has much creative potential (just try finding a circular and full-frame fisheye lens for the X10). But it’s way out-classed by the X10, as are its successors, the P6000, 7000 and 7100.

There are a few gripes. Conspicuously missing was a cover for the hot shoe. I’ve never purchased a camera without one. I have a spare Nikon cover I can use, but that’s not the point. The battery life seems to be on short side. And then there’s the non-existent filter thread size issue. But if that’s the worst of it, I truly am in digital rangefinder nirvana

Introducing the Fujifilm X10

Fujifilm X10; For Rangefinder Lovers.

Well, this is not quite what I had in mind, but it’s a start. A wonderful start.

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