Day Three: Linekin Bay, Whale Watch

My first expedition is to nearby Barrett park overlooking Lewis Cove. I didn’t get much of a chance to try out my new B+W 092 Dark Red filter, so I reach for my Nikon D50.

As it turns out, the AF NIKKOR 20mm f/2.8D is a good choice for D50 Infrared. Its smooth manual focus, real focus scale and infrared index give it an advantage, and its 30mm APS-C angle of view almost perfectly matches the Voigtländer 35mm external viewfinder.

Combined with the D50’s greater IR sensitivity, the 20mm f/2.8 is more practical than it would be with say, the D90. At ISO 1600, handheld shooting is possible, and the D50’s noise is surprisingly low at that speed.

The D50 does not have Live View, so the Voigtländer finder assists with composition, while AF assists with focus. I say assists, because once the D50 sets the focus point, it needs to be adjusted to the IR index, just the same as it does with manual focus. The difference is, with infrared, you can’t see to focus without first removing the filter, so this is a big help. Program mode yields a workable image right away, but exposure in IR is very tricky, so tweaking with exposure compensation dial is almost a given. Certainly it gives you a baseline to work from if you choose to switch to manual exposure. To get the highest resolution image possible, I use a tripod with an ISO of 400 and an aperture of f/5.6 in A mode.

This was a great opportunity to try out the new B+W 092 Dark Red Infrared filter. This filter has a lower cutoff point, allowing a little more visible light to find its way to the sensor. This creates a more “colorful” false-color image. It’s also a little easier to work with. This 67mm filter and the required 62-67mm step-up ring can be used with the HB-4 bayonet hood, but the 67mm Hoya screw-in hood is more effective.

Nikkor AF-S 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6G
After Breakfast, we head over to the center of town for a whale watch cruise to which I bring the D90. Equipped with the AF-S NIKKOR 16-85mm and Nikon Circular Polarizer II, I’m ready for some full-spectrum photography.

The Nikon Circular Polarizer II is about a third-stop faster than most other polarizers. It’s is one of the most important filters to have in your kit, as it modifies light in a way no post-processing can.

Another good polarizer is the Hoya HRT Circular Polarizer/UV. It’s a mild polarizer with good UV blocking characteristics, which gives you about a 1/3-stop advantage over a standard polarizer. You can safely keep it on your lens at all times as a protector, and simply take it off if you really need the extra speed. But when lighting is good and the situation warrants, the Nikon Circular Polarizer II can’t be beat.